Method of making shoes



Aug. 12, 1947. K. A. STRITTER 2,425,445

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed June 28, 1945 a Sheets-Sheet 1 InventorKaTlA.Jfri er Aug. 1947. K. A. STRITTER 2,425,445

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed June 28, 1945 5 Sheets-$heet 2 82 u/ 36 as44 Inventor Ia 1-2 A. Striilfer his 16 rne-y I "I Aug. 12, 1947. K. A.STRITTER METHOD OF MAKING SHOES filed June 28, 1945 3 Sheets-Sheet 3"IIIIIIIIIII- \\\\\w Fly 23 130 F 22 130 g 124 y 126 1404 I n venfor jKarl/1.55am

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Patented Aug. 12, 1947 2,425,445 METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Karl A,Stritter, Nahant, Mass.,

assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J., acorporation of New Jersey Application June 28, 1945, Serial No. 602,041

20 Claims. 1

This invention relates to shoes and methods of making shoes and isillustrated herein'witl'i particular reference to prewelt shoes whichare slip-in lasted, that is, lasted by inserting a last into the upperafter it has been secured to a sole member while off a last.

In slip-in lasted shoes of the prewelt type and also of the platformtype, the upper, a welt or edge covering strip, and a thin flexibleinsole or sock lining are usually stitched together in face-to-facerelation while off a last and, after and this ridge, being inside theshoe, is difficult to reduce or eliminate b trimming, beating down orpounding, or even by covering with a slip sole or insole, A ridge ofthis nature inside the shoe also tends to spoil the fit of'the shoe andoften causes discomfort to the wearer. Moreover, such a bunch ofmaterial extending around the shoe bottom may interfere with the properattachment of an outsole or platform sole, especially if the solemembers are to be attached by cement.

An important object of the present invention is to provide an improvedmethod pf making prewelt slip-in lasted shoes in which the difficultiesreferred to above are'eliminated.

To this end, the invention provides, in accordance with one aspect, animproved method of making prewelt shoes which consists in providing'aprewelted upper in which the Welt or edge covering strip on the upperprojects beyondthe lower edge of the upper an amount substantially equalto the lasting margin of a normal upper, and also providing a thin,flexible insole or sock lining which is smaller than a last bottom by anamount substantially equal to the normal lasting margin of an upper or,in other words, by the amount the welt projects beyond the upper.

The projecting portion of the welt orstrip is then.

secured to the marginal portion of the insole or sock lining while theupper is off a last, after which a last is inserted into the upper toshape it and also to position the welt or strip and sock liningrelatively to each other underneath the last bottom. I

' As herein illustrated, the welt or edge covering strip projects beyondthe lower edge of an upper which is cut scant or with substantially nolasting margin. The projecting portion of the welt or strip ispositioned fiat against the margin of the insole or sock lining and theparts are secured together in this position while off a last byoverseaming stitches which are overcast across the adjacent edge facesof the members and which permit relative pivotal movement of the weltand sock lining about the, stitches without disturbing the stitches. Thewelt and sock lining are then turned about the stitches as a pivot toposition said members insubstantially the same plane widthwise of theupper and with their adjacent edge faces in abutting relation to eachother. A last is then inserted-into the upper to shape the upper and topermit the attachment of an outer sole or the other sole members whichare to be used in the shoe.

In accordance with the present method, as herein illustrated, theprewelt "slip-in lasted shoe may be completed as a welt shoe with anoutsole attached to the welt by stitches or, if desired, the shoe may becompleted as a platform shoe in which the welt or strip serves as anedge covering stri or wrapper for a platform sole with an outsoleattached to an inturned portion of the covering strip, for example, bycement.

In either case, of course, the welt or the covering strip or wrapperserves as a sole attaching strip or, in other words, as a strip to whicha sole member, such as an outsole or a platform sole, is subsequentlyattached either by cement or stitches. Modifications of the constructioninclude utilizing the welt or strip to produce a rib or bead between theupper and sole member by folding the strip over upon itself and thenattaching the sole member to the foldedover portion of the strip bycement or other attaching means. If desired, a shoe made in accordancewith the present invention may be provided with a thin wafer platformsole covered at its edge face by the welt or strip, the shoe, ifdesired, also having an insole of'normal thickness secured to the upperor sock lining by cement.

A modification of the invention provides a method of making preweltslip-in lasted shoes in which the portion of the welt or strip whichprojects beyond the upper is beveled or skived to a relatively thin edgeand the marginal portion of the insole or sock lining is also beveledcomplementally to the bevel on the welt. In this construction, the weltis secured to the sock lining by overlapping their complementallybeveled portions and securing said portions together in such position'bycement or other fastening means. Such procedure permits adjustment ofthe welt and sock lining relatively to each other widthwise of theshoeand this assists in obtaining a tight fit of the upper on the lastwhen the. last is inserted into the upper. This type of prewelt shoe maybe made on a last, if desired, although the welt and sock lining arepreferably fastened together, as illustrated herein, while off aQlast.Any of the constructions mentioned above may, of course, have theirsoles attached directly to the welt or attaching strip, as in regularwelt shoes, or they may be provided with platform soles or midsoles, inwhich case the welt or strip will serve as an edge covering strip orwrapper to cover the edge face of the intermediate sole, the outsolebeing attached to that portion of the covering strip that is turnedinwardly over the outer face of the platform sole.

With the above and other objects and aspects in view, the invention willnow be described in detail in connection with the accompanying drawingsand will thereafter be pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

' Fig. 1 is a cross-sectional view of a prewelt upper and a flexibleinsole or sock lining used in carrying out the present method;

' Fig. 2 is' a fragmentary sectional view of a prewelt upper in whichthe welt or strip is secured to the upper by two rows of stitchinginstead of one and the lower edge of the upper is beveled;

Fig. 3 shows the prewelt upper and sock lining of Fig. 1 securedtogether off a last by overseaming stitches;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the upper and sock'lining illustratinghow the overseamin stitches are overcast across the adjacent edge facesof the welt and sock lining;

Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view showing the socklining and welt inabutting relation to each other afterbeing secured together by theoverseaming stitches; Fig. 6 is an enlarged sectional view illustratingthe abutting relation of Fig. 5 more clearly;

Fig. 7 is a cross-sectional view after a last has been inserted into theupper;

Fig. 8 is a section showing an outsole attached to the welt; v

Fig. 9 is a sectional view similar to Fig. 8 in which the welt or stripcovers the edge face of a platform sole with an outsole attached to theinturned portion of the strip;

Fig. 10 is a sectional view of a shoe provided with an insole and inwhich the welt or strip is folded to form a bead between the upper andoutsole, the outsole having an extending edge portion and being attachedto the strip by stitches;

Fig. 11 is a sectional view illustrating a modified construction inwhich the outsole has no extension edge and is attached to the welt orstrip by cement;

Fig. 12 is a section of a shoe provided with a thin fwafer platformsole, the outsole being attached to the edge covering strip by cement;

Fig. 13 is a fragmentary sectional view similar to Fig. 2 showing aprewelt upper having substantially no lasting margin and with the weltor strip projecting beyond the upper;

Fig. 14-. shows the welt secured 011 a last to a thin flexible insole orsock lining by throughand-through stitches;

Fig. 15 is a sectional View showing the welt and sock lining in astraightened position;

Fig. 16 is a section showing a last inserted into the upper and anoutsole attached to the welt;

Fig. 1'7 is a modification in which the welt or strip covers the edgeface of a platform sole with the outsole attached to the inturnedportion of the strip by cement;

Fig. 18 is a sectional view, similar to Fig. 14, in which the welt orstrip is secured to the sock lining by a seam with the upper turnedwrong side out;

Fig. 19 shows the upper of Fig. 18 turned right side out, a lastinserted, and an outsole attached to the shoe bottom;

Fig. 20 is a section showing the shoe of Fig. 19 as a platform shoe inwhich the welt or strip covers the edge face of a platform sole;

' Fig. 21 is a sectional view of a prewelt upper in which the inwardlyprojecting portion of the welt is skived or beveled to a thin edge;

Fig. 22 shows the prewelt upper of Fig. 21 with p a beveled sock liningattached to the beveled welt;

Fig. 23 illustrates a modification of the construction shown in Fig, 22in whichthe welt no lasting margin and has a welt or sole attachingstrip 32 secured to its lower edge portion.

by stitches 34 with the welt or strip projecting beyond the lower edgeof the upper a distance approximately equal to the lasting margin of anormal upper, as shown at 36. A thin flexible insole or' sock lining 38is also provided which is smaller than a last bottom by substantiallythe same amount that the welt projects beyond the upper, that is. by anamount approximately equal to the normal lasting margin of an upper. Asillustrated in Fig. 2. the welt or strip 32 may be attached to the upperby two rows of stitches 40 instead of a single row. if desired, andthelower edge face of the upper may be beveled, as at 42, to remove theshoulder from inside the shoe.

The prewelt upper 30 of Fig. 1 is positioned so that the projectingportion 33 of the welt 32 is located in face-to-face relation flatagainst the marginal portion of the insole or sock lining 38, asillustrated in Fig. 3, and the edge portions of the welt and sock liningare secured together by single thread overseaming stitches M which areovercast across" the adjacent edges of the welt and sock lining, asshown in Figs. 3 and ,4.

The overseaming stitches form loops or rings extending through theadjacent edges of the welt and sock lining and, accordingly, they permitrelative turning movement of the welt and sock lining about the stitchesas a pivot without disturbing the stitches. After the" welt or strip 32has been secured to the sock lining completely around its periphery, theweltand sock lining are turned relatively to each other about-"thestitches 34 from the position shown in Fig.3 to that shown in Fig. 5, inwhich position the welt and sock lining are located in substantially thesame plane widthwise of the upper with their adjacent edge faces inabutting relation to each other, as illustrated in Figs. and 6.

A last 46 is now inserted into the upper, as shown in Fig, '7, therebyslip-in" lasting the shoe and shaping the upper to the last and alsopositioning the overseaming stitches 44 and the abutting edge faces ofthe welt and sock lining under the last bottom a substantial distanceinwardly from the edge thereof. The shoe is now ready to receive anoutsole if it is to be 'a welt construction, or to receive other shoebottom members if it is to be a modified welt or other construction. Theshoe illustratedin Fig. 8 is of welt construction and, accordingly, anoutsole 48 is attached to the welt or sole attaching strip 32 bystitches50 passing through the outer portion of the welt and the marginalportion of the outsole.

It may be desirable to make the prewelt shoe terial, such as felt, corkor the like, is laid on the shoe bottom in engagement with the strip 52and insole or sock lining 38. The outer or free portion of the edgecovering strip is then wrapped around the edge face of the platform soleand is turned inwardly against the outer surface of the sole and securedto said surface preferably iby, cement, as illustrated in Fig. 9. Theinturned portion' of the covering strip which, like the welt, alsoserves as a sole attaching strip, is next roughened lightly and coatedwith sole attaching cement 55, after which an outsole 56 is cementattached in the usual manner to the inturned portion of the coveringstrip 52. The platform shoe of Fig. 9 has a close edge sole portionwhich is substantially in alinement with the widest portion of the shoe,although it could, of

course, have-a platform sole and an outsoleprovided with extension edgessimilar to the extensionedges shown in Fig. 8.

; As afurther modification of the shoes illustrated in Figs. 8 and 9,Fig. 10 shows a shoe with the welt or strip 52 extending outwardly from1 i the upper to form a medium sole extension and then doubled over uponitself to provide a bead or rib-58 between the upper 30 and an outsole60,

the'outsole being secured to the doubled-over portion of the welt bythrough-and-through stitches B2. In the shoe illustrated in Fig. 10, an

the insole being coated with an adhesive.

insole 64 of substantially normal thickness was placed on the last 46before the latter was inserted into the upper, the outer or exposedsurface of After the shoe was completed by the attachment of of the soleattaching strip by cement 10. The insole 64 maybe placed on the lastbefore the shoe of Fig. 11 is slip-in lasted, as illustrated in Fig. 10,to provide the shoe with an insole permanentlysecured to the shoebottom. If it is desired to produce a platform shoe in which the insole64 of Fig. 10 is employed without making the sole portion of the shoetoo thick, the construction illustrated in Fig. 12 may be utilized, thewelt or strip 52 in this construction being wrapped around the edge faceportion of a thin wafer platform sole 12 of relatively yielding materialand an outsole 14 of normal thickness being attached to the inturnedportion of the covering strip, preferably by cement 15. The platformconstructions illustrated in Figs. 9 and 12 could, of course, havemarginal extensions on the platform soles and outsoles instead of theclose edge sole construction illustrated in those figures.

The constructions illustrated in Figs. 1 to 12, inclusive, are anprewelt shoes in which the welt or covering strip is secured to a thinflexible as described above, the present method further provides forsecuring these members together in other ways to produce slip-in lastedshoes similar to those in which the overseaming stitch is used.

=1 4 Fig. 13 illustrates a scant upper 16 having subthe outsole, thelast was withdrawn from the shoe to leave the insole secured in theshoe, thereby providing a smooth inner surface for the foot.

The shoe illustrated in Fig. 10 may be still further modified, as shownin Fig. 11, by folding the welt or sole attaching strip, 52 over uponitself to form a bead 66 between the upper and an outsole 68, the beadbeing located close to the upper to produce a close edge sole portioninstead of an extension edge sole portion, as in Fig. 10, the outsole 68being attached to the inturned portion stantially no lasting margin andhaving a welt or strip 78 secured to its lower edge portion by a usualseam 80, the welt l8 projecting beyond the lower edge of the upper adistance approximately equal to the normal lasting allowance of anupper. The inwardly projecting portion of the welt I8 is bent over, asillustrated in Fig. 14, and positioned flat against the marginal portionof a. thin flexible insole or sock lining 82 and the two parts aresecured together in this position by through-and-through stitches 84rather than by overseaming stitches, as described above, thethrough-and-through stitches being sewn on any conventional type sewingmachine. The welt and sock lining are then straightened to position themin a relatively flat plane, as illustrated in Fig. 15, which causes theengaging edge portions of the welt and sock lining and the stitches 84to project outwardly or away from the inside of the shoe. A last 86 isinserted into the upper to slip-in last the shoe and an outsole 88 isattached to the welt or sole attaching-strip by stitches 98, as

shown in Fig. 16, the outsole in that figure having an extension edgeportion in which the stitches are located.

Instead of the welt construction illustrated in Fig. 16, a platform edgecovering strip 92'may be substituted for the welt, as shown in Fig. 17,and the strip wrapped downwardly and inwardly around the edge portion ofa platform sole 94 and secured against the outer surface of the solescribed above, by mounting the insole on the last before the latter isinserted into the upper in the slip-in lasting operation.

While the attachment of the welt or strip to the sock lining by athrough-and-through seam 84, as illustrated in Figs. 14 and 15, providesa relatively smooth slip-in lasted shoe in either the welt constructionor the platform construction, it may be desirable to secure the welt tothe sock lining by a still different type of seam, for example, by theseam illustrated in Fig. 18. In this figure a scant upper I00, havingsubstantially no lasting margin, and a welt or sole attaching strip I02are secured together by stitches I04 with the welt extending beyond thelower edge of the upper a distance approximately equal to the lastingmargin of a normal upper. The prewelt upper is turned'wrong side out andthe inwardly extending portion of the welt is positioned flat againstthe edge portion of a thin flexible sock lining I06, the sock lining andwelt being stitched together in this position by a seam I08. The upperis then turned right side out, as illustrated in Fig. 19, and a last I Iis inserted into the upper to shape it to the last and to position thewelt I02 and the sock lining I06 in substantially the same plane withthe contacting edge portions of the welt and sock lining projectinginwardly toward the last so that the seam I08 is located inside theshoe. Since the stitches I08 are positioned in close proximity to theedges of the welt and sock lining, the inwardly projecting portions ofthese members and the seam I08 will not produce any appreciable bunch inthe shoe bottom although, as illustrated in Figs. 19 and 20, an insoleII2 of normal thickness is preferably secured in the shoe, as describedabove, to provide a smooth bottom surface inside the shoe. An outsole H4is then attached to the outer portion of the welt or attaching strip I02by stitches II6 to complete the shoe.

If it is desired to make a prewelt shoe in accordance with the presentmethod and with the seam just described but to produce a.- platform shoerather than a Welt construction, the welt I02 of Fig. 19 may be replacedby a platform edge covering strip 8, as shown in Fig. 20, and a platformsole I20 of relatively thick yielding material laid upon the shoebottom, the covering strip II8 being then wrapped around the edge faceof the platform sole and wiped inwardly over its outer surface andsecured to said outer surface by cement. An outsole I22 is then attachedto the shoe bottom, as illustrated in Fig. 20, ,by cement I23 locatedbetween the margin of the outsole and the inturned portion of thecovering strip lIa which, as indicated above," also serves as a soleattaching strip. The shoe of Fig. 20 does not have marginal extensionson the platform sole and outsole but such extensions could be provided,if desired. It is to be understood, of course, that the outsole of theshoev of Fig. 20 could be secured to the shoe bottom by stitches insteadof cement.

In the different shoe constructions described above, the shoes were allslip-in lasted after the prewelt upper was secured off a last to a thinflexible insole or sock lining. Moreover,

the welt or edge covering strip in these shoes extended a substantialdistance beyond the lower edge of the upper to serve as the lastingmargin for the upper and the insole or sock lining was made smaller thana last bottom by substantially the amount that the welt extended beyondthe upper, that amount, as illustrated herein, being substantially equalto the lasting margin of a nor mal upper. It may be desirable in somecases, however, to construct a shoe in accordance with the methoddisclosed herein, but to provide foran adjustment of the welt and socklining relatively to each other before they are permanently securedtogether. The provision of an adjustable feature during the constructionof the present shoe, for example, would assist greatly in causing theupper to fit the last tightly when the last is inserted and-therebyproduce a well shaped shoe.

With this end in view, the shoe may-be constructed in accordance withthe modification illustrated in Fig. 21, in which a prewelt upper I24having substantially no lasting allowance is provided having a welt I26secured thereto by stitches I28, the inner portion I30 of the weltprojecting beyond the lower edge of the upper a distance approximatelyequal to the normal lasting margin of an upper. The inner or projectingportion I30 of the welt, however, is skived or beveled to a relativelythin edge in the present case, as shown in Fig. 21, to provide anoutwardly beveled inner portion on the welt. The upper I24 with itsbeveled welt I26 is then assembled with a thin flexible insole or socklining I32which is considerably smaller than a last bottom but largeenough to overlap the inner or beveled portion I30 of the welt, asillustrated in Fig. 22. The marginal portion of the sock lining isskived or beveled complementally to the welt so that when the beveledportions of the sock lining and welt are placed in overlappingengagement with each other, they form a continuous layer ofsubstantially uniform thickness across the bottom of the upper. The socklining is preferably attached to the beveled portion of the welt orattaching strip by cement I33, the members being adjusted widthwiserelatively to each other as much as may be necessary before the cementhas set to position them properly for the size of last which is to beinserted into the upper. The sock lining I32 may be attached to the weltI26 while oifa last, in the manner described above and as shown in Fig.22, or, if desired, the sock lining may be mounted on the bottom of alast I34 (Fig. 24) and the upper worked over the last bottom and thebeveled portion of the welt secured in overlasted relation to thecorrespondingly beveled portion of the sock lining by cement I35. Ineither case,

when the relative adjustment of the sock lining and welt has been made,the upper Willflt the,

' .last snugly and smoothly at all points and the welt and sock liningtogether will provide a continuous layerof, substantially uniformthickness across the bottom of the shoe.

If it is not desirable to skive or bevel the welt and sock lining, asdescribed above, they may be left at their full thickness, as shown inFig. 23, and secured in overlapping relation by cement either on or off.a last. This is especially true if the parts are of particularly thinmaterial. As illustrated in Fig. 23, the welt I30 of full thicknessprojects beyond the upper I42 a substantial distance and the sock liningI36 overlaps the inner or projecting portion ofthe welt, being securedthereto by cement I40.

The shoe of Fig. 22, if assembled off a last, is now slip-in lasted by.inserting the last I34 (Fig. 24) afterwhich an outsole' I46 is attachedto the welt by stitches I48 in the usual manner. If a platform shoe isdesired, the welt is made wider or replaced by a platform edge coveringstrip I50, as shown in Fig. 25, and, after slip-in i lasting, aplatformsole 152 is laidon the shoe bottom and its edge face portion covered bythe strip which is wiped inwardly over the" outer sur- An outsole 156 isthen attached to the inturned portion of the covering or sole attachingstripthan a sole extension type, although the extension edge soleconstruction could be provided, if desired.

, wife last, said sock lining being shaped like" an; as'tbottom'byan'amount substantially equal face of the sole and secured thereto bycement;

AS poihted'out in connection with several oithe inserted into the upperso that the compl'etecll:--

shoe will be provided with a normal insole per manently secured insidethe shoe in the'man'ner described above. Moreover, the outsole'lfili of'Fig.'24 could be attached by cement rather than stitches whereas theoutsole I56 of Fig. couid be secured to the shoe bottom by stitchesextending through the edge covering and sole attaching strip I50, theplatform sole I52 and the outsole Having thus described my invention,what I claim as new and desire to'secure by Letters 7 shoes whichconsists in providing a prewelt upper tance approximately equal to thenormal-lasting margin of the upper, the stitches being located in closeproximity to thelower edge o'f theiupper, securing the projectingportion of thezwelt to the marginalportion one thin flexible "so insolebut being smaller than a 'l mg margin .of sn p r, inserting alast intothe upper thereby c'oniormi'ng it to the shape'of the lastand-straighteriing the sock lining and welt -,to cause them't'o' liei n,substantially the same bottom. '3 f?" f l -5, Thatlim'provement inmethods of making shoes which consists in providing a prewelt upper'plane;,-,and attaching asole v membegr,jtothe shoe otherconstructionsdescribed above, an insoleoiyfl,

normal thickness may be mounted on the last 134 of Figs. 24 and 25, ifdesired, before the lastis f having a scant lasting margin and in whichthe in which the welt projects a substantial distance the upper,inserting a last into the upper, and at attaching a sole to the welt. r

- 2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inprovidingj-a'prewelt shoe upper in which the weltprojects beyond theupper a distance approximately equal to the normal lasting allowance ofan-uppensecuring the projecting portion of the welt oil a last to themarginal portion 'of a thin flexible sock: n-f J" ing shaped like aninsole but smaller than 5' las bottom by an amount approximately equalto 1;

amount the welt projects beyond the upper,-inserting a last into theunited upper 'and sock lining, and attaching a'fsole member to thbOttOm. 1. I"

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding a preweltmpper having a scant lasting margin and in which thewelt projects beyond the lower edge of the upper a distanceapproximately equal to the normal lasting margin of an upper,positioning the projecting portion of the welt fiat against-the marginalportion of a thin'flexible insole and perposition while the upper is offa last, said insole jects beyond the upper, inserting a lastinto-jtheupper to the shape of the last and locating the welt and insole in asubstantially flat position,

" and attaching an outsole to the outer portion of the welt.

4. That improvement in methods of making manently securing said portionstogether in such 5. r

v g -qr of the upper a distance approximately equal to being smallerthan a last bottom by anamountv'.

' ing substantially no lasting margin, stitching a welt to said upperall a last so that the-welt protaching asole to the shoe bottom.

jects beyond the lower edgeof theupper a disapproximately equal to theamount the weltprof I united upper and insole thereby conforming the iwelt projects beyond the lower edge of the upper distance approximatelyequal to the normal sting margin of an upper, securing a thin flexiblesock lining off a last to the projecting portion of; the welt byfastening, means located close to adjacent edge portions of the sock"lining and welt, the sock lining being smaller than a last bottom bysubstantially the amount that the welt projects beyond the upper,inserting a last into the 'upper and attaching an outsole to the'welt.Thatimprovement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing aprewelted shoe upper having substantially no lasting margin and a weltwhich projects a substantial distance beyond the lower edge of theupper, securing the projecting portion of the welt to the marginal"portion of a thin flexible insole ofia last by stitches which passthrough the edge portions of the insole and welt, said insole beingsmaller than a last bottom by approximately the s me amount that thewelt projects beyond the uper, inserting a last into the upper therebypositioning the stitches a substantial distance .-inwardly from the edgeof the last bottom, and

attaching a sole to thewelt.

7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding a prewelted upper having a scant lasting margin with thewelt-projecting beyond the upper a distance approximately equal to thenormal lasting margin of an upper, securing a thin flexible sock liningto the .projecting portion of the welt off a last by means of stitcheswhich permit relative movement of the sock lining and welt aboutithestitches without disturbing the stitches, moving the sock liningand Weltrelatively to each other 'funtil they are located in substantially thesame plane with their adjacent edge faces abutting each other, insertinga last into the upper, and

attachinga sole to the welt.

8. That improvement inmethods of making shoes which consists inproviding a prewelted upper having substantially no lasting margin withthewelt projecting beyond the lower edge the normal lasting margin" ofan upper, securing a thin flexible insole 01? a last to the projectingportion of the welt by means of overseaming stitches which permitrelative turning movement of the insole and "welt about the stitcheswithout disturbing said stitches, turning the insple and welt relativelyto each other about the stitches until they are located in substantiallythe same plane widthwise of the upper with their adjacent edge, faces inabutting relation to each other, inserting a last into the upper therebyslip-in lasting the shoe, and at and welt about the stitches withoutdisturbing the stitches, inserting a last into the upper to causerelative movement of the insole and welt about said stitches and therebyto position the insole in the plane of the welt with its edge face inabutting relation to the edge face of the welt, and stitching an outsoleto the welt.

That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providingan upper having a scant lasting margin, securing a welt to the lowerportion of the upper off a last by stitches located adjacent to thelower edge of the upper and with the ,welt projecting beyond said loweredge a distance approximately equal to the normal lasting margin of anupper, providing a sock lining of thin flexible material which issmaller than a last bottom by an amount substantially equal to thenormal lasting margin of an upper, ositioning the marginal portion ofthe sock lining fiat against the projecting portion of the Welt with theedge of the sock lining flush with the edge of the welt, securing thesock lining and welt together in such position by single-threadoverseaming stitches which are overcast across the edges of the socklining and welt and permit relative pivotal movement of said parts aboutthe stitches without disturbing said stitches, inserting a last into theupper to cause the sock lining and welt to move relatively to each otherabout the stitches until they are located in substantially the sameplane widthwise of the last with their adjacent edges abutting eachother, thereby providingla flat surface for receiving an outsole, andattaching-an out---.

sole to the welt.

11. That, improvement in methods of making shoes which consists insecuring an edge covering strip to the lower margin of an upper off alast with the strip extending a substantial distance beyond the loweredge of the upper, providing a thin flexible sock lining which issmaller than a last bottom by an amount approximately equal to theamount the covering strip extends beyond the upper, securing the socklining off a last to the extending portion of the covering strip,inserting a last into the upper thereby po- 12 lining off a lastto theprojecting portion ofthe covering strip by overseaming stitches whichpermit relative pivotal movement of the sock lining and strip about thestitches without disturbing said stitches, inserting a last into theupper to move the covering strip and sock lining about the stichesin'tosubstantially the same plane with their adjacent edge facesin'abutting relation to each other, thereby providing a substantiallyfiat surface on the shoe bottom, laying a platform sole on the coveringstrip and sock lining, wrapping the covering strip around the edge faceof the platform sole and turning it inwardly over the outer surface ofsaid sole and securing it thereto, and attaching an outsole to theinturned portion of the covering strip.

13. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding a prewelt upper having a scant lasting margin and a'welt'which projects a substantial distance beyond the lower edge of theupper, the projecting portion of said welt being beveled toa thin edge,securing the beveled projecting portion of the welt to the margin of athin flexible sock lining which is beveled complementally to the bevelon the welt,

. said sock lining being smaller than a last bottom, inserting a lastinto the upper thereby shaping the upper and locating the joint betweenthe sock lining and welt under the last bottom and at a substantialdistance inwardly from the edge thereof, and attaching a sole member tothe shoe bottom. 7

14. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding a prewelt upper having substantially no lasting margin withthe welt projecting beyond the lower edge of the upper a distanceapproximately equal to the sitioning the sock lining and covering stripin substantially the same plane to provide a relatively flat surface onthe shoe bottom, laying a sole on said flat surface, wrapping thecovering strip around the edge of the sole and turning it inwardly overthe outer face of said sole, securing said strip to said outer face, andattaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the covering strip.

'12. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists insecuring an edge covering strip of substantial width to the lower marginof an upper off a last with the strip projecting beyond the lower edgeof the upper an amount approximately equal to the normal lasting marginof an upper, providing a thin flexible sock lining which is smaller thana last bottom by an amount substantially equal to the amount thecovering strip projects beyond the upper. securing the sock normallasting margin of an upper, the projecting portion of the welt beingbeveled to a relatively thin edge, providing a relatively thin flexiblesock lining which is smaller than a last bottom by approximately thesame amount that the welt projects beyond the upper and which has amarginal portion which is beveled to a thin edge to correspond to thebevel on the welt, positioning the beveled portions of the sock lin ingand welt together in face-to-face relation and securing them together bycement to produce a substantially uniform layer across the bottom of theupper, inserting a last into the united upper and sock lining andattaching a sole member to the sock lining and welt.

15. That improvement in methods of making shoeswhich consists inproviding a prewelt upper having a scant lasting margin with the weltstitched thereto so that it projects a substantial distance beyond thelower edge of the upper, the projecting portion of the welt beingbeveled outwardly to a thin edge, providing a thin flexible sock liningsmaller than a last bottom by an amount not quite so great as the amountthe welt projects beyond the upper and having its marginal portionbeveled complementally to the bevel on the welt, placing the beveledportion of i the sock lining upon the beveled portion of. the

welt and adjusting them relatively to each other into a position inwhich the upper will fit tightly on a last, securing said portionstogether in such position, inserting a last into the upper to shape theshoe, and attaching a sole member to the bottom of the shoe. o

16. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding an upper having a scant lasting margin and a welt stitchedthereto with the welt projecting a substantial distance beyond the loweredge of the upper, the

projecting portion of the welt being beveled to a relatively thin edge,positioning the beveled portion of the welt oiT a last upon the marginof a thin flexible sock lining the margin of which is beveledcomplementally to the bevel on the welt, securing the beveled portion ofthe sock lining to the beveled portion of the welt, thereby producing acontinuous layer of uniform thickness across the bottom of the upper,inserting a last into the upper thereby shaping it to the last andlocating the joint between the welt and sock lining under the lastbottom and at a substantial distance inwardly from the edge thereof,said continuous layer providing a relatively flat surface for receivinga sole, laying a sole on said flat surface, and permanently attachingthe sole to the welt.

1'7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which includes thesteps of providing at least at the forepart of the shoe a scant upperhaving substantially no lasting margin, securing a sole attaching stripto said upper with the strip projecting beyond the lower edge of theupper, and attaching the projecting portion of the sole attaching stripoff a last to a thin flexible sock lining which is smaller than a lastbottorn by approximately the same amount that the sole attaching stripprojects beyond the upper.

18. That improvement in methods of making shoes which includes the stepsof providing a scant upper having substantially .no lasting mar: gin,stitching a welt to said upper with the welt 19. That improvement inmethods of making shoes which includes the steps of stitching a soleattaching strip to a scant upper having practi-' cally no lasting marginwith the strip projecting.

beyond the lower edge of the upper a distance approximately equal to thenormal lasting margin of an upper, attaching the sole attaching stripoff a last to a thin flexible sock lining which is smaller than a lastbottom by approximately the same amount that the sole attaching stripprojects beyond the upper, and inserting a last into the upper to shapethe latter and position the sole attaching strip and sock lining insubstantially the same plane under the last bottom, therebyslip-inlasting the upper and positioning the sole attaching strip for theattachment of a sole member.

20. That improvement in methods of making shoes which includes the stepsof providing a scant upper having substantially no lasting allowance,securing a sole attaching strip to said upper with the strip projectingbeyond the lower edge of the upper an amount approximately equal to thenormal lasting allowance of an upper, attaching the projecting portionofi' the sole attaching strip off a last to a thin flexible sock liningby over'seaming stitches which permit relative movement of, the soleattaching strip and sock lining about said stitches without disturbingthe stitches, said sock lining being shaped like an insole but beingsmaller than a last bottom by approximately the same amount that thesole attaching strip projects beyond the upper, and inserting a lastinto the upper thereby shaping the upper and moving the sole attachingstrip and sock lining about said stitches until said strip and socklining are located in substantially the same plane with their adjacentedge faces in abutting relation to each other.

mm- A. s'rarrraa.

